Jill Sander

"Kalula nje, ngokuqondile, akuyona into eningi yentando yeningi futhi ebiza kakhulu" - yile ndlela enye yezimpawu ezidume kakhulu zezimpahla zakwa-Jil Sander, owakhiwa uHeidemarie Zilin Zander, owaziwa kakhulu ngokuthi uJil Sander, ubonakala. Amamodeli alo mshini acatshangelwe iminyaka eminingi ngabesifazane bezwe lonke izinga lokuphakama nokulula.

I-Jill Sander iyinhlangano encane eyimfashini yemfashini, umklami ophezulu wokugcina amafashini, owesifazane ogqoke ngokumane futhi ngokumangalisayo, esebenzisa ilungelo lokuzikhethela ngokweqile futhi ngokungenangqondo. Wayengesabi ukubeka inhloko yePrada Holding. Ukuzikhethela kwakhe kwaholela ekulahlekelweni kwegama lakhe kanye nokuhoxiswa kwiNdlu yakhe yeNdlu. Futhi ukusebenza kukaGil akuzange kusheshe ukuphakama ekuphakameni okunjalo kwe-dizzy. Kodwa mayelana nakho konke okuhlelekile.

Umsebenzi uJill Sander

UJill wazalwa edolobheni elincane laseJalimane futhi wakhulelwa umama ongayedwa. Umsebenzi wakhe wefashini, akazange aqale nge-internship kwenye iFashion House edumile, hhayi nge "sheath" yezintombi zakhe. UJill, njengesiJalimane esicabangelayo, ubikezele kusengaphambili izinyathelo eziningi zomsebenzi wakhe wesikhathi esizayo. Wanquma ukuhlala "ekhishini" embonini yemfashini futhi aqonde kangcono zonke izinto ezibucayi zezombangazwe zezombusazwe. UJill Sander waqala ukulungiselela ukukhuphuka kwakhe emaphethini omhlaba, esebenza njengomsizi kumhleli we-magazine omnyama uBrigitte waseHamburg naseMelika McCalls. Kodwa uJill wayengafuni ukuhlanganisa impilo yakhe ne-fashion journalism. Wayevutha isifiso sokudala ngokuzimela, futhi hhayi ukugxeka ezinye izidalwa zabantu. Akusizi ngalutho ukuthi wafunda izingubo zangasese ekhaya, bese e-University of California.

Lapho eneminyaka engama-25 ubudala, uJill wavula i-boutique yakhe yokuqala eHuburg ngaphansi kohlobo lweJil Sander, lapho izinto zokuqala ezidalwe umklami omusha zathengiswa. Ukuboniswa kweqoqo lokuqala likaJill Sander laqhutshwa eParis, futhi ngonyaka olandelayo eMilan. Abadumile abaningi, abakhathele kakhulu ukugqoka kakhulu, bamangala kakhulu ngesitayela esiwusizo nesesifazane esasikisela nguJill Sander. Futhi isitayela somklami sasihlukaniswa nemigqa elula kanye namafomu, okunethezeka kwawo okwakuhlanganiswa yizindwangu ezinhle. Wazibonakalisa emhlabeni wonke ukuthi i-prostate eyinqunyiwe ingase ibonakale imnandi kakhulu, futhi noma yimiphi imininingwana emayelana nesizinda salokho kuncibilikisa i-laconism kuyoba yinto engafaneleki. Abagxeki babizwa ngegama elithi Jill "i-minimalism yengqondo." Kodwa uJill wahlukana hhayi kuphela ekusatshalalisweni kwe-minimalism eqinile, wavuselela umhlaba wezemfashini, "wamthelela" ngesitayela esinezinhlobonhlobo ze-anyanisi-ubukeka.

Ngasekuqaleni kweminyaka engama-90, uJill Sander wasinqoba imboni yezimfashini - eParis, lapho evula khona ibhizinisi lokuqala e-Avenue Montaigne edumile. Ngesikhathi uJill esevele ethola uJil Sander Cosmetics noJil Sander Leder. Wabuye waba umklami wokuqala waseJalimane owakhiwa ngamafeste owawubonisa amaqoqo akhe hhayi ezweni lakubo, kodwa e-capital world of fashion - eMilan. Amaqoqo akhe okunethezeka, ahlukaniswe ngokucacile okungaqondakali, enza uJill omunye wabaqambi abahamba phambili bezinga lamazwe ngamazwe. Phakathi neminyaka engama-90 e-US, uJill Sander wanikezwa i-Fashion Group Award, futhi kamuva wakhulisa impumelelo yakhe ngeqoqo lamadoda lokugqoka kanye nomugqa wamakha.

Izinguquko endlini yezemfashini Jil Sander

Ukuphela kweminyaka engu-90 kwaba ukuqala kwezingxabano ezinkulu eMnyangweni WezeMidlalo kaJil Sander, lapho kutholakala isigxobo esilawulayo ePrada Group. Kodwa ukuthutha okunjalo kwezohwebo akuphumelelanga. Ngaphansi konyaka, uJill waqala ukungavumelani noPatrizio Bertelli, inhloko yePrada. Konke kwaqala ngeqiniso lokuthi uPatrizio Bertelli wasikisela ukuthi iJill isebenzise indwangu yokuqoqa okulula, ngaleyo ndlela ibonise ibhizinisi layo. Ngokwemvelo, uJil Sander akakwazanga ukuvumelana nalokhu. Khona-ke wayefuna "ukuhambisa" ukukhiqizwa kwezembatho ezweni elishibhile. Eqhosha ngesitayela sakhe segama lakhe elibizayo, uSander akakwazanga ukusinda. Wagula umnyango futhi wangena ndawo. Iqoqo lekwindla-ebusika 2000-2001, njengoba wonke umuntu ecabanga, yilokugcina owadalwa nguGil.

Kodwa sekudlula iminyaka embalwa, futhi uJill Sander wamenywa ukuba abuyele endlini yakhe yemidlalo. Kubonakala sengathi, ngaphandle komdali womkhiqizo, izinto azihambanga kahle. Iqoqo elilandelayo nje lijabule wonke umphakathi wesimo. Umbukeli wamemeza ngokuma! Kodwa, ngeshwa, ukubuya kukaJil Sander akujabuli isikhathi eside. Akazange akwazi ukuthola ulimi oluvamile nePrada Group, futhi waphinde wasula.

Okwamanje, lo mkhiqizo uhlala, kodwa usuvele uphila ngokuzimela, uthuthukise amasiko we-minimalism enokunethezeka okwasekwa umsunguli walolu hlobo. Futhi uGil Sander ngokwakhe uhlala emthunzini weThe Fashion House futhi ubiza ngentshiseko yonke imfanelo efanelekayo. Mhlawumbe uma uJill Sander engakhange akhathele yizo zonke lezi zingxabano ezifashisayo futhi engashiyanga umkhiqizo wakhe, konke bekuyohluka ... Kodwa wasebenzisa ilungelo lakhe lokukhetha ngokukhethekile.